by Kate Fox
A year in the life of Leslie Timms reads like a climber’s dream: May to October in Clarksburg, Ontario, October to December somewhere exotic and warm (like Turkey), then January to May in Joshua Tree, California. Then back to Clarksburg to repeat.
She recently became the first Canadian woman ever to get her Professional Climbing Guide Institute Lead Guide certification in April. Through dedication and perseverance she has become one of the country’s top female climbers.
How did you get into climbing?
My friends (including my now husband) brought me out to try rock climbing at a boulder that was close to our college. I remember trying to get to the top of this thing about 25 times, until my fingers were bleeding. Finally, I understood the move and I reached the top. The natural high that I felt was incredible and I really enjoyed the personal challenge. I bought all of my own gear that weekend.
What goes through your mind when climbing a challenging rock? Do you have any mantras?
When I’m “in the zone,” nothing goes through my mind. That is the beautiful thing about climbing; it can be like a meditative dance in which you react to the rock instinctually. However, thoughts of doubt, fear and fatigue are definitely mental battles that I encounter and are usually overcome by positive self-encouragement.
Tell me about the scariest experience you’ve had.
My scariest fall happened very early in my climbing career. I was climbing a relatively unsafe route to chase a first ascent. We were probably 900 feet off the deck and I was very far above my last piece of protection. The hold that I was resting on suddenly ripped out of the wall, with me on it. As I was falling, I threw the rock to the side so that it wouldn’t hit my partner and then I flipped upside down. I fell about 40ft and landed on a ledge head first. I was knocked unconscious, cracked my helmet, but somehow only suffered a mild concussion. It shook me up for a while.
What is your funniest rock climbing story?
Usually they aren’t that funny when they are happening, but they make great stories afterwards. I’ve definitely had some pretty funny situations that involve taking a poo while 800 feet up on a cliff.
What would you say has been the most challenging rock you’ve faced?
Maxi Pista (5.13c), a sport climb at Lions Head, Ontario that was put up by Gus Alexandropoulos. It is a long, relentless and powerful line that is so inspiring.
You got your PCGI (Professional Climbing Guides Institute) Lead Guide certification, this winter, making you one of the first Canadians (first woman) to accomplish this. What did the course entail?
It was the PCGI Lead Guide certification and rope rescue technician. It certifies that I am qualified and insured to lead guide all over North America, meaning that I lead up the route first and bring clients up to me, then descend down safely. I spent seven weeks in Joshua Tree, California, prepping, studying and practicing for the exam. It was especially challenging because the majority of my previous experience had been on bolted sandstone and limestone sport climbs and this certification’s focus was on pure traditional climbing (placing your own protection in cracks) on granite. I not only had to learn the ways of a “rope magician,” but I also needed to get comfortable with the style of climbing. I was so thankful to take the course with my good friend Chris Pegelo, it made it much less stressful.
Why have so few Canadians attained this certification?
Actually, up until now, they had not certified anyone in Canada. Out West the ACMG (Association of Canadian Mountain Guides) has control over the certification market.
ACMG is much more alpine and multi-pitch focussed and they encourage progression into ski and mountain certifications. Ontario’s terrain is much different; short approaches and shorter routes; it seemed that such a certification wasn’t really necessary. I did research for months and found PCGI. I was really impressed that they were a purely rock climbing-based certification, with several levels of certifications that you can apply to what you’re guiding. I approached them about the possibility of beginning to certify guides in Ontario, with hopes to make PCGI a standard in Ontario, as a lot of guides in Ontario are not certified to lead guide. After working through the logistics, they were really excited to begin certifying in Ontario.
Has this been a long-time goal for you?
Yes. However, I was hesitant about investing the time and money into it because I wasn’t 100% certain that I wanted to be a climbing guide. I was fearful that guiding climbing would take away from my love of the sport and that I would burn out. After testing the waters for the past few years, I have found that it is the opposite. Guiding and coaching have really helped me appreciate the sport on a new level.
What was the biggest obstacle you faced?
The biggest obstacle was definitely the technical rescue systems and proficiency and efficiency level that was expected. I was completely overwhelmed during my first few days of the course. I only gave myself 11 days to prep for the exam after the course. I got cold feet and I tried to extend the dates, but my mentor advised me to see it through. It was stressful; I had to work really hard to hard wire this stuff, as there is zero room for mistakes in such an environment. In the end, it was a blessing that I had given myself so little time; the pressure forced me to really give 100%.
Why was it important for you?
I have always wanted to learn this stuff; with the climbing I would like to do it is really important to know that I could get myself out of any situation. I have dreamed of opening a climbing school for a while, but I wanted to be sure that I can offer top-notch knowledge and expertise. This certification has given me so much more confidence in myself as a climber and guide. I also needed insurance and being an accredited guide saves you huge with insurance. This course inspired my friend Chris and me to partner up and open our own climbing school called “On the Rocks.” We are in the process of getting it all up and running for the summer. For more information, check out www.ontherocksclimbing.com (Our site) and www.leslietimms.com (my site).
What advice would you give to someone who wanted to get into climbing?
Try it first with a guide or in a climbing gym. It is super important to learn how to climb safely before you do it on your own.
What are your hopes and goals for the future? Any massive rocks in mind?
Always. I have a “life list” of climbs that I am truly inspired by and that I would love to accomplish one day. Travelling is always a short term goal; I would love to go to Armenia, Australia and Spain for climbing. I also want to continue my education as a guide and perhaps guide in some cool places around the world.
What is it like being a female rock climber? Does it differ from being a male that rock climbs? Do you feel that you are treated differently because you’re a girl? Was it challenging to be taken seriously?
For the most part it isn’t a big deal. I have noticed that most people usually assume that my husband climbs harder than me, but in most cases they would be right. I find that it is less challenging to be taken seriously as a female climber, men and women are both usually very inspired by women who push themselves in such a high adrenaline sport.
What do you love most about your job?
Positive vibes! The people I guide are always having an awesome day. They are happy to try something new, to overcome challenges and to be outside. This positivity rubs off on me and I love it. It is also wonderful to have such a beautiful office.
What is your favourite rock to climb (either type or specific)? Where can it be found?
I love the limestone in Lions Head, Ontario. It has the perfect balance of technique and power in a stunning setting. For me, the landscape is just as inspiring as the rock. With there being so many incredible places to rock climb in the world, it is hard to pick just one.
How often do you go climbing?
I would say 3 days a week on average throughout the year. More or less depending on life and injuries.
Do you have any special techniques?
I have been known to make some pretty good ninja noises when I am trying really hard. I find that if I scream it tightens my core and forces me to breath during a difficult move and it amuses my friends.
Who do you look up to or aspire to be like?
Although a lot of different climbers inspire me, Lynn Hill was a female pioneer of her time. She has excelled in all styles of the sport and climbs with impeccable technique and patience. She has also never let her age slow her down.
How do you muster up the courage to climb vertical cliffs when one wrong move could mean quite the fall and injury?
Most of the time climbing is very safe. However, that isn’t to say that I haven’t been in positions in which a fall would result in serious consequences. I feel that I am very aware of my comfort zone now, and I usually only push myself in situations that I can control, either that or a climb is so inspiring that I am willing to accept the consequences of a mistake. I think that a little fear pushes me to try harder and channels a state of calm in my mind. If there was no element of fear, I feel that I may not try as hard to not fall.
How do you prepare both mentally and physically for a tough climb?
Visualization is a very important tool. I usually rehearse the moves and success in my mind. I also try to remain positive with myself, talk, and see success in even the smallest things. Physical training depends on the climb or the trip. I like to train at local climbing areas such as Metcalf and Old Baldy, to stay sharp on the rock, but I also train on my home climbing wall. We have a really good training gym in our garage where we can train for more specific goals.
What do you usually wear climbing? What equipment do you use?
Clothing that I can move freely in is very important. Climbing shoes are my most prized piece of equipment: form fitted to my foot and with super sticky rubber.
Depending on the type of climbing we do, depicts the types of equipment we bring. For route climbing we bring a rope, harnesses, belay device and protection for the climber. For small boulders we just bring our crash pads (to land on if we fall), climbing shoes and chalk.
What do you do in your spare time when you’re not climbing?
Think about climbing.
My husband and I both love to cook. I also love yoga, gardening, training, running, hacky-sack, riding my bike, swimming at the pier and painting. When nobody is around I blast hip hop and pretend like I can rap.
What did you think about the movie 127 Hours?
Never seen it! But I have heard the story. He made some very bad judgment errors; I would never go climbing without telling someone where I am. However, he was very brave and anyone can respect his will to live.
